Soft flower purse

Hello,
Today I would like to share with you another flower purses I made. The one in the pictures I did while ago for my sister-in-law. (It was very hard to give it away - women and their purses.)

I fall in love with this rose square so much. I made another purse.
I like to share with you the pattern for purse I finished couple of hours ago.

Soft flowers purse pattern

35cm x 38cm (14” x 15”), bottom cca 7cm (2,8”)

The size really depends on type of material and size of the hook you are using, which is up to you.

You need: 

I used 320 grams (11.3 oz) and just under 1000 meters (1100 yards) of 70% cotton/ 30% acrylic suitable for G/4mm crochet hook

Crochet hook E/3,5mm for the purse and G/4mm for the flower squares

Yarn Needle, 30cm (12”) zipper

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology

ch       chain 

slst      slip stitch

sc        single crochet

dc       double crochet 

st        stitch 

sk       skip

Note: Read all the instructions first. I wrote it the way I did it, and I found it the easiest way for me, but you can choose to make the parts of the purse in a slightly different order, whichever suites you better. 

Purse body: Front

First you have to make 16 flower squares 8cm x 8cm (3,2” x 3,2”). I used free flower square pattern I found here and crochet hook G/4mm. You can use any square shape with or without flowers as long as you like it. It is your choice.

You need to crochet the squares together, I used sc’s.

To secure the rows, and to give the future purse a nice form, I made the border with 5 rows of sc’s all around. Starting at the top right hand corner – sc in sc and 3sc’s in the corners. The first row I crocheted back stitch only. When I finished fifth row, I added 4 rows of sc’s to the top of the purse, to make it higher. (That’s why is good to start in the top right hand corner. It saves you cutting the yarn). The front is finished.

Purse body: Back

For the back of the purse I used a classical granny square. 

I made 16 rounds. You may need to do a row less or a row more. Just count the stitches. I continued the same way as with the front - 5 rows of sc’s all around. Starting at the top right hand corner – sc in sc and 3sc’s in the corners. The first row I crocheted back stitch only. When I finished fifth row, I added 4 rows of sc’s to the top of the purse. The back is now also finished.

Now it’s the time to sew the front and back together. I sewed it together by hand – using back stitch only. You will have formed a tube or cylinder.

Bottom of the purse:

It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slip stitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction.

Ch 54, dc into 4th ch from the hook and follow the chart. Make four rounds. End up with slst. 

You should end up with oval containing approximately 144 stitches around the outside . Don’t panic if there is one or two more or less stitches. Mark the sides, It’s easy to correct it by sc’s together while you are crocheting the bottom to the cylinder body of the purse. I used sc’s to connect it together again.

Lining:

I this stage I would put a lining in the purse. (I didn’t. I did the handle first, but it was trickier.) I sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body as shown on the picture. I suppose, you can sew the lining by machine. I just don’t know how visible it’ll be on outside.

Handle: 

Handle is worked backwards and forwards in two parts. Start from the right side of the purse. Put a marker on the seam, (as shown  on the picture), count 24 stitches to the right and 24 stitches to the left – 49 stitches together. Slst. where your right marker is, ch 3+ 48dc’s(49dc’s) – row 1. Decrees in every row 1 dc from each side, until row 17. In row 17 you should have 17dc’s, on row 18 don’t decrees, do 17dc’s as well. Row 19 and 20 do 15 dc’s. Row 21 do 13 dc’s and keep going up to row 35 now with 13 dc’s. That is first half of handle, 

which measures cca 30 cm (12”). You can adjust the length of the handle by adding or removing the rows with 13 dc’s. Fasten off.

Other side of the handle is worked same way.

I sewed the two parts of handle together. You can crochet them together if you like.

Zipper:

I’m adding zippers to most of my purses. This time I put the zipper in at the end.

First I crocheted ch65, sc into the second ch from the hook and sc front/back for five rows. Fasten off, but leave around 1m (40”) long end.

I did two pieces and sewed it by hand to the zipper.

Than I sewed the zipper with the extension to the purse.

Finishing:

I put my little “Emm” label on the lining of the purse.

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Flower brooch pattern

Materials: 

I used few meters of 70% cotton/30% acrylic yarn. (Any yarn would be just fine, as long as it suites your purposes) 

3mm for the balls and E/3,5mm hook for the flowers, tapestry needle, little bit of stuffing, and a safety pin

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology 

chain                  ch 

single crochet      sc

double crochet    dc

slip stitch            slst 

stitch                  st

decrease            dec.

repeat                 *-*

I used a May Roses pattern from Atti24 for the flowers.

Base: 

E/3,5mm hook 

Start with Magic loop

Row 1:  Ch1,6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Row 2: *2sc in each sc* (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* (18 sts)

Row 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc* (24 sts)

Row 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc* (30 sts). Fasten the end.

Bigger ball: E/3,5mm hook 

Start with Magic loop

Row 1:  Ch1,6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Row 2: *2sc in each sc* (12 sts)

Row 3: *sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* (18 sts)

Row 4, 5: repeat row 3 (18 sts)

Row 6: *sc in next sc, 2scdec. in next sc* (12 sts). Fill the ball with a little bit of stuffing at this stage.

Row 7: *2scdec. in each sc* (6 sts)

Row 8: *2scdec. in each sc* (3 sts)

Yo 3 last stitches on the hook and sc, ch15, leave longer tail cca 20cm (8”).

Smaller ball: E/3,5mm hook 

Start with Magic loop

Row 1:  Ch1,6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Row 2: *2sc in each sc* (12 sts)

Row 3, 4: repeat row 3 (12 sts). Fill the ball with a little bit of stuffing at this stage.

Row 5: *2scdec. in each sc* (6 sts)

Row 6: *2scdec. in each sc* (3 sts)

Yo 3 last stitches on the hook and sc, ch13, leave longer tail cca 20cm (8”) end.

Smallest ball: 3mm hook 

Start with Magic loop

Row 1:  Ch1,6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Row 2: *2sc in each sc* (12 sts)

Row 3, 4: repeat row 3 (12 sts). Fill the ball with a little bit of stuffing at this stage.

Row 5: *2scdec. in each sc* (6 sts)

Row 6: *2scdec. in each sc* (3 sts)

Yo 3 last stitches on the hook and sc, ch10, leave longer tail cca 20cm (8”) end.

Assembly:

Sew the top and one of the side flowers on the base. Arrange the balls as you can see them in the picture, sew them together first, and then on the base afterwards. Cover the ball ends on the base with third flower. Add the safety pin on the back.

If you came up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, I’ll be more than happy to help.

Have nice spring weekend

Clara

The Spring is starting

Hello,
It looks like the spring is finally starting in here.
On the way back from nursery we found some violets and snowdrops. What a pity you can’t smell them - very nice. One feels better right away.

The snowdrops are looking little bit sleepy, but they are coming.

For the Spring and Summer I made this net shawl. I choose this grey/blue color, because it looks like the sky, these days – blue with white and grey clouds. And since most of the mummies are living in jeans it should be easy to match with most things in their wardrobe.

Simple blue shawl pattern
Size 190cm x 90cm (cca 76’’ x 36’’)

You need: (for this size shawl)
I used 250g of soft acrylic baby yarn suitable for E/3,5 mm hook, but I used a little bit bigger crochet hook than suggested - H/5mm, as it made the shawl fluffier.
Yarn Needle, marker

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch    chain
slst   slip stitch
sc     single crochet
dc    double crochet
st      stitch
beg   beginning

Shawl
Row 1: ch 5, dc into 5th ch from the hook, ch1, dc in same, ch1, dc in same, ch1, dc in same.

Row 2: Turn, ch4, dc into base of ch4, ch1, dc in next dc from previous row, ch1, dc-ch1-dc-ch1-dc in next dc from previous row, ch1, dc in next dc from previous row, ch1, dc-ch1-dc into 4th ch from starting row.

Repeat this simple pattern. All together I did 60 rows. Your shawl can be as big or small as you like, by adjusting the amount of rows.

Edging

.

Slst. join the yarn in the corner, ch6, 2dc crochet together into 3rd ch from the hook, ch2, slst into same st as dcs, ch3, skip one window, slst into next window.

It works nicely for the middle windows as well.

I made row of these bubbles or edgings, if you would like to, in 20th and 40th row as well.

And there it is very simple blue/grey shawl.

If you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, I’ll be more than happy to help.

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Have nice weekend and start of the springtime

Clara

The Easter preparations

Hello,
Easter is coming slowly and I have promised to crochet a lot of bunnies for library charity auction – I’ll write about that in another post.
There is a spring break for kids in schools and nurseries in this part of the Europe now. (Why do the kids always get sick or having holidays when you have too many projects to finish?). The weather is rather poor as well, so I decided the best way to keep little Angel busy is by doing some early home Easter bunny making. She sees me crocheting and making all sorts of things all the time and loves to help me. I came up with a project for her little hands, while I’m busy crocheting my gray bunny.

White Pom-Pom Bunny tutorial

Cca 16cm / 6,5” long

Materials: 

I used 50 g of very thick fluffy acrylic yarn, but any yarn would be just fine, as long as it suites your purposes

Cardboard rings, tapestry needle, stickers for eyes, decoration pom-pom for tail, bit of glue, a little bit of white and pink felt for ears.

You need to make two pom-poms. One for the head (mine one is cca 7cm /2,8”), one for the body (cca 10cm /4”).

This is where it comes in handy to have little helper.

Note: 

I have at home some pom-pom makers, feel free to make them this way if you like, but I decided to use cardboard, and an old fashion method to make the pom-poms – the way my grandma taught me.

Assembly:

Tie together by the loose strings from the pom-poms. Cut out of felt the white ear and the inner pink ear, glue them together and then glue whole ear to the strings on the head of your bunny. Glue on the eyes and pom-pom tail. You can add the ribbon if you like.

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Grey Bunny pattern

Cca 17cm/6,8” with a tail

I used 50g of grey acrylic yarn, but any yarn would be just fine, as long as it suites your purposes

E/3,5mm hook, tapestry needle, stuffing, beads for eyes, ribbon and two decoration pom-poms (bigger for tail, smaller for nose)

Note: It is worked in circular crochet method, beginning at center of the ball. Slip stitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction. Use marker. Leave longer tails.

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology 

chain                  ch 

single crochet      sc

double crochet     dc

slip stitch            slst 

stitch                  st

repeat                 *…*

together              tog.

You need to form two, sort of, unfinished balls. One, almost complete, ball for the head, one for the body.

Head: (cca 19cm / 7, 5”)

Row 1: Magic ring, 8 sc into the ring or ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each sc (16 sts)

Row 3: sc in each sc (16 sts)

Row 4: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* (24 sts)

Row 5: *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st* (32 sts)

Row 6: *sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st* (40 sts)

Rows 7 - 14: sc in each sc (40 sts)

Row 15: *sc in next 3 st, 2sctog. in next st* (32 sts)

Row 16: *sc in next 2 st, 2sctog. in next st* (24 sts)

Row 17: sc in each sc (24 sts)

Now you are finished with the head. You can stuff the ball, leave longer tail.

Body: (cca 26cm / 10, 5”) 

Row 1: Magic ring, 8 sc into the ring or ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each sc (16 sts)

Row 3: sc in each sc (16 sts)

Row 4: *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* (24 sts)

Row 5: *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st* (32 sts)

Row 6: *sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st* (40 sts)

Row 7: *sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st* (48 sts)

Row 8: *sc in next 5 st, 2sc in next st* (56 sts)

Rows 9 - 20: sc in each sc (56 sts)

Row 21: *sc in next 5 st, 2sctog. in next st* (48 sts)

Row 22: *sc in next 4 st, 2sctog. in next st* (40 sts)

Row 23: *sc in next 3 st, 2sctog. in next st* (32 sts)

Row 24: *sc in next 2 st, 2sctog. in next st* (24 sts)

Now you are finished with the body. You can stuff the ball, leave longer tail.

Ears: (make 2)

Row 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into the ring or ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sts)

Row 2: 2sc in each sc (12 sts)

Rows 3 - 7: sc in each sc (12 sts)

Row 8: 2sctog. in next st, sc in next 5 st, 2sctog. in next st, sc in next 5 st (10 sts)

Rows 9 - 13: sc in each sc (10 sts)

You are finished with the ears, leave longer tail. Do not stuff the ears just flatten them.

Assembly:

Sew the stuffed head and body together, where the biggest opening is. Staff it more before closing them all up together, if needed. Sew the ears and eyes, pom-pom nose (smaller pom-pom); don’t forget little tail (bigger pom-pom). Add the ribbon of your choice.

There they are - one for Angel, one for Mummy.

Have a nice week

Clara

White purse or market bag

Hello,
I found this pattern for a really nice and versatile purse or bag a while ago. I have to admit, I can’t remember where. I will be more than happy to give somebody credit for the nice idea, but I don’t know to whom. The idea is beautiful, but it turned out to be smaller than I thought and the handle wasn’t long enough. I made couple more adjustments – to make the bottom stronger, added the zipper and lined it up.
So here is the pattern I put together with all those little extras.

White purse / bag pattern

You need: 

-Acrylic yarn or cotton of your choice (I used cca 300 grams – 0.660 lbs. / 880 meters – 960 yds.) 

-The Crochet hook suggested for your material – I used G/4mm

-Yarn Needle 

-Around 45cm x 90cm (18” x 36”) off cotton for the lining (you don’t have to use cotton)

-25cm (10”) zipper

-A4 plastic wallet 

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology

ch       chain 

slst      slip stitch

dc       double crochet 

st        stitch 

Bottom

Start with the bottom of the purse. It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slip stitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction.

Ch 47 + 4, dc into 5th ch from the hook and follow the chart. Make six rounds. End up with slst. The asterisks on the sides of the chart are indicating the point where the middle of the front and back will be.

You don’t need to cut the yarn, just continue on the body of the purse.

Body of the purse

Work it the same way as the bottom - around. At the end of each row slst into the place where you need to be. 

Note: 6th row from the bottom of the purse is the same one like the 6th row of the body. Don’t work it twice.

On the chart the first and last stitch is the same. Don’t do it twice. 

Work up to row 30. After row 30, repeat rows 15 – 30 again.

The asterisks on the sides of the chart indicate where the front and back middle of the purse is.

You should have 40 rows on the body of the purse. Fasten off.

Now it’s the time to make the bottom of the purse stronger.

I used A4 plastic wallet. Cut the shape of the purse bottom out of it and made stitches around, as you can see on the picture.

Turn the purse inside out and sew it to the bottom of the purse from inside. I used thinner yarn for that.

You should have nice body of the purse with stronger bottom now.

Handles: 

Handle is worked backwards and forwards. Start from the right side of the purse and follow the chart from body of the purse for the first half of handle. When you get to row 27 of the, follow this chart.

Remember not to make row 27 twice. Finish with the row 34. Fasten off.

Other side of the handle is worked same way, but finish with row 33. Otherwise the pattern won’t work.

Sew the two parts of handle together. The arrow on the picture is pointing to the place where I sewed it.

Lining:

I put a lining in the purse.  I sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body. I suppose, you can sew the lining by machine. I just don’t know how visible it’ll be from outside.

Zipper:

I’m adding zippers to most of my purses. This time I put the zipper in at the end.

First I crochet ch56, sc into the second ch from the hook and sc front/back for six rows. Fasten off, but leave around 1,5m (60”) long end.

I did two pieces and sewed it by hand to the zipper.

Than I sewed the zipper with the extension to the purse.

Finishing:

For the finishing I used crab stitch around the handle, and put my little “Emm” label on the front of the purse.

Final measurements are: cca

38cm x 38cm (15" x 15"), handle 60cm (24")

There it is. You should have nice purse now, or an inspiration for one at least.

I hope you understand, but if you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.

Have nice week

Clara