Autumn purse

Autumn purse / crossbody bag tutorial

Size: 35cm x 37cm (14” x 15”)

You need: 
Acrylic yarn or cotton of your choice (I used cca 300 grams – 0.660 lbs. / 880 meters – 960 yds.) 
The Crochet hook suggested for your material – I used E/3,5mm
Yarn Needle 
Around 45cm x 90cm (18” x 36”) off cotton for the lining (you don’t have to use cotton)
30 cm (12”) zipper
A4 plastic wallet for the straightening of the purse bottom
1,5 meters long (60”) by 3cm wide (1,2”) handle piece
Buttons (17 for this bag)

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch       chain 
slst      slip stitch
sc       single stitch
dc       double crochet 
st        stitch 

Bottom of the purse:
Start with the bottom of the purse. It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slipstitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction.
Begin by crocheting a chain of 47 + 4 stitches (count as a dc on start of each round) (51 chains all together).

Round 1: Double crochet (dc) into the 4th chain (ch) from the hook, dc into the same stitch. Make dc into each 45 ch, 5 dc into 46th (last) ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make dc into each 45 ch, 2 dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 3 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (100 dc all around). You need 6 markers now- it’ll make your work easier. Put each marker to the 2nd, 3rd and 4th dc out of 5dc group on each side. (Red dots on the picture indicates where you put the markers as you go). Do not turn.
Round 2: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc – this is the side of your purses bottom as well), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (112 dc all around).
Round 3: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (124 dc all around).
Round 4: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (136 dc all around).

I ended the bottom here but you can do a row or two more for bigger purse or row or two less for smaller one. It’s really up to you.

For straightening the bottom of the purse use the tutorial you will find here:
http://emmhouse21.blogspot.cz/2015/03/white-purse-or-market-bag.html

Body of the purse:
Work in rounds. Sc into every dc from the bottom of the purse (136sc’s). At the end of each row, slst. to finish the round. Ch 1 to start every next round. I used single crochet (sc) for the body of my purse. I think you can use a half double crochet (hdc), a double crochet (dc) or any crochet stitches you like.

I can’t remember exactly how many rounds I did. It doesn’t really matter. I finished when the body measured cca 37cm (15”) high. Again, you can make your purse smaller or bigger by adding or reducing the number of rows. Fasten off.

Flowers:

I used a very simple flower I found on the net. I don’t know who came up with the pattern for this flower first. There are so many practically identical free patterns available.

Round 1: MR, ch1, 5sc’s into the ring, slst. into first ch1.

Round 2: *ch3, 3 dc’s together into same stitch, ch3, slst. into the same stitch, slst. into next stitch* repeat 5 times, fasten off.

Sew the flowers on the purse the way you would like it or the way you can see it on my purse. I put a button in the center of each flower.

Lining, handle, zipper:

I put a lining in the purse.  I sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body. I suppose, you can sew the lining by machine. I’m adding zippers to most of my purses. I added an adjustable handle as well. I like crossbody bags or purses very much – It leaves me with a free hand. Priceless with little kids.  

There it is. You should have nice purse now, or an inspiration for one at least.

I hope you understand, but if you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.

Have a nice week
Clara