Today I do have a new pattern for you. I did get a little bit hooked on tapestry crochet. There are so many very beautiful motives all over the Internet. I had to study on Youtube this type of crocheting for a while before I started. I made very simple shoulder bag to start with. I have to admit it is little more time consuming than I thought, but I think it looks very interesting.
This is my first attempt and a beginner’s version of nice tapestry crochet shoulder bag.
Tapestry crochet shoulder bag - free pattern
Size: width cca 40cm x height cca 35cm (16”x 14”), bottom cca 9cm (3,5”), handle drop cca 50cm (20”), the finished size will really depend on material you’ll use.
You need:
Acrylic yarn or cotton of your choice (I used cca 300 grams of acrylic yarn – 150grams of blue, 50grams of nude, 50grams of beige, 50grams of brown/pink)
The Crochet hook suggested for your material – I used G/4mm
Yarn Needle, markers
A sufficient amount off cotton for the lining (you don’t have to use cotton and you don’t need to line the purse – it’s optional)
35 cm (14”) zipper
A bit of denim or anything else you decide to use to straighten the bottom of the purse and filling.
Two pieces cca 65cm(26”) long and 2,5cm(1”) wide material for the handle
Note: Please read all instructions first, so you can choose one of the various options of this pattern, which best suite your project.
Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch chain
slst slip stitch
sc single stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
st stitch
dec. decrease
*-* repeat
Bottom of the purse
Start with the bottom of the purse. It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slip stitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction. To crochet the bottom you can use dc or hdc stitch.
Begin by crocheting a chain of 47 + 4 stitches (count as a dc on start of each round) (51 chains all together). I made the bottom in blue.
Round 1: Double crochet (dc) into the 4th chain (ch) from the hook, dc into the same stitch. Make dc into each 45 ch, 5 dc into 46th (last) ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make dc into each 45 ch, 2 dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 3 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (100 dc all around). You need 6 markers now- it’ll make your work easier. Put each marker to the 2nd, 3rd and 4th dc out of 5dc group on each side. Do not turn.
Round 2: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc – this is the side of your purses bottom as well), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (112 dc all around).
Round 3: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (124 dc all around).
Round 4: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (136 dc all around).
Rounds 5 & 6: Continue in the same fashion as with round 4. By end of the round 5 you should have 148 stitches, after round 6 you should have 160 stitches.
I ended the bottom here but you can do a row or two more for bigger purse or row or two less for smaller one. It’s really up to you.
To strengthen the bottom of this purse I used a little bit of denim fabric and a bit of purse stuffing. Sew it together as you can see on the picture bellow. Afterwards I sewed it to the crochet bottom by hand. It is better to sew it together at this stage of crocheting.
For a little bit of different technique, you can use the tutorial you will find here:
Body of the purse
Work in rounds.
Round 1: (I used a blue color for this row as well.) Ch1, sc into the same stitch, sc into every one of the following stitches. Slst. into first ch1. (160 sc’s around)
Rounds 2 - ?: I started the tapestry crochet now. (You can find many very good tutorials on Youtube – it looks a little bit difficult, but, believe me, it’s easy to learn.) I was changing the colors every 10 stitches and I was using dc’c.
All together I made 36 rows of dc’c, changing the color every 3 rows.
I made one/last row of “crab stitch” on the top – I think it just looks pretty. Again, you can make your purse smaller or bigger by adding or reducing the number of rows. Fasten off.
Lining:
I put a lining in this purse. I sewed it on machine and sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body. I suppose, you could sew the lining in by machine.
Zipper:
I’m adding zippers to most of my purses. I made ch 60 and three rows of hdc's. You can find two options on how to add the zipper in these two free links bellow:
Handle:
This time I bought the handles. You will need two pieces cca 65cm(26”) long and 2,5cm(1”) wide of material for these handles.
There it is. You should have a nice shoulder bag now or an inspiration for one at least.
If you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.
Have a nice week
Clara
I'm not good yet with crochet, so can you tell me what 'cca' means ? Thanks!
ReplyDeletecca = approximately. The crocheted purses always stretch a little(+ or -2cm).
DeleteThank you ! I thought that was it but wanted to make sure
DeleteHi Clara mam,
ReplyDeleteYour tapestry bag is awesome...I liked it very much and I made one for myself.
thank you for posting it in share a pattern.Awaiting for your wonderful crochets.
Regards
Sreevidhyya from India
At Boho Tapestry we believe that creativity is the main ingredient in a happy life. We believe that with our tapestries you can express who you really are. It's not just a designed piece of cloth on the wall, it's what you love
ReplyDeleteboho tapestry